An underground greenhouse, often called a walipini (a word meaning “place of warmth” in the Aymara language), is one of the smartest ways to grow food year‑round using nature itself as insulation. Instead of fighting cold winters, wind, or extreme temperature changes, a walipini works with the earth. By building below ground level, you take advantage of stable soil temperatures, reduced heat loss, and natural protection from harsh weather.
This method has been used for decades in cold and high‑altitude regions, but today it is gaining popularity worldwide among gardeners, homesteaders, and anyone who wants reliable harvests with lower energy costs. In this article, you will learn why an underground greenhouse is so effective and how to build one step by step using simple materials and practical design principles.
Why Build an Underground Greenhouse (Walipini)?
1. Stable Temperatures All Year
Below about 1.5–2 meters, soil temperature remains relatively constant throughout the year. While air temperatures may drop far below freezing or rise sharply in summer, the ground stays cool in hot months and warm in winter. This creates a naturally regulated growing environment.
2. Lower Heating Costs
Traditional greenhouses often require heaters during winter. A walipini dramatically reduces or eliminates this need because the surrounding earth acts as a thermal battery, storing heat during the day and releasing it slowly at night.
3. Protection from Wind and Storms
Being mostly underground means your structure is shielded from strong winds, hail, heavy snow, and storms. This reduces damage and extends the lifespan of the greenhouse.
Parazol
Ако откриете папиломи на вашето тело, веднаш направете го ова
Zestradar
Meet The Giant 18-Inch Leech Of Nightmares
4. Longer Growing Season
In many climates, you can grow vegetables 10–12 months of the year, even when outdoor gardening is impossible.
5. Water Efficiency
Lower wind exposure and stable temperatures reduce evaporation, meaning plants require less frequent watering.
6. Sustainable and Eco‑Friendly
Walipinis rely on passive solar heating rather than fossil fuels, making them one of the most environmentally friendly greenhouse designs available.
7. Food Security
With year‑round production, you become less dependent on external food supply chains and seasonal limitations.
How a Walipini Works (Simple Explanation)
A walipini uses three natural principles:
Thermal mass – the soil absorbs and stores heat.
Solar gain – sunlight enters through a transparent roof.
Insulation – underground walls prevent heat loss.
During the day, sunlight warms the interior and surrounding soil. At night, that stored heat is slowly released, keeping plants warm even when outdoor temperatures drop.
Choosing the Right Location
Before building, selecting the correct spot is critical.
Ideal conditions:
Good drainage (avoid flood‑prone areas)
South‑facing slope or open southern exposure (in the Northern Hemisphere)
Away from large trees and roots
Low water table
Easy access to water
If your soil becomes waterlogged after rain, consider installing drainage or choosing higher ground.
Basic Design Principles
Depth
Most walipinis are dug 1.8 to 2.5 meters (6–8 feet) deep.
Orientation
The roof should face the sun:
South‑facing in the Northern Hemisphere
North‑facing in the Southern Hemisphere
Roof Angle
The transparent roof should be angled between 30° and 45° to maximize winter sun exposure.
Shape
A long rectangular shape is easiest to build and manage.
Materials You Will Need
Shovel or excavator
Gravel
Wooden beams or metal framing
Concrete blocks, earthbags, or treated wood for walls
Plastic greenhouse film or polycarbonate panels
Drainage pipe
Stones or thermal mass (barrels filled with water work well)
Ventilation pipes or windows
Step‑by‑Step: How to Build a Walipini
Step 1: Dig the Pit
Excavate a rectangular pit approximately:
6–8 feet (1.8–2.5 m) deep
10–30 feet (3–9 m) long
8–12 feet (2.5–3.5 m) wide
Slope the north wall higher than the south wall to support the angled roof.
Step 2: Create Proper Drainage
Spread a layer of gravel at the bottom and install a perforated drainage pipe leading outside the structure. This prevents water accumulation and root rot.
